Wild animals often nest or roam near human dwellings, especially during the spring or summer when they resurface from winter's slow-down and begin nursing or nesting with their babies. Here is some practical advice on how to resolve common wildlife problems using humane and inexpensive methods.
Q: What should I do if there's a bat in my house or there are bats roosting in my attic?
A: Don't panic. Bats have been plagued by centuries of "old wives' tales," but they are actually one of nature's more gentle creatures. If you are positive that the bat has not bitten anyone or been in anyone's bedroom overnight, confine the animal to one room and open a window or exterior door. The flying bat will locate the opening by echo-location and fly out by nightfall. If that bat is not flying, check draperies or other places where the bat can hang easily. Wear heavy gloves and capture the bat either by placing a jar over the bat and then gently sliding a piece of cardboard underneath, or by gently putting a towel over the bat and carrying the bat outside for release (be gentle -- bats are fragile animals). Avoid direct contact with the bat so you don't get bitten. If the bat has bitten someone, contact your local health department for instructions.
Bats enter buildings through holes under roof overhangs, in eaves, vents, cracks around windows, through spaces under ill-fitting boards, and around pipes leading into the house. They can squeeze through openings as small as a half-inch wide, so when the bats are gone make sure to repair or patch all entry points which are usually discernable by oily stains. To locate bat entry holes, watch at dusk to see where the bats fly out from. Do NOT patch any holes from March to September or you will entrap flightless juvenile bats inside!
Q: How can I stop bears from getting into my trash can or birdfeeder?
A: First of all, don't be afraid -- black bears are extremely timid creatures and will usually run at the sign of a person. If you live near bear habitat and you don't want bears on your property, you should simply not have a birdfeeder. Bears are attracted to any type of food left outdoors. You can prevent them from coming near your property by storing all food indoors and all trash in air-tight garbage cans. You can order bear-proof garbage cans from McClintock Metal Fabricators (1-800-350-3588).
Q: Beavers in my neighborhood are chewing on trees and building dams that flood roads. What can I do?
A: First, tell your local officials that killing beavers and destroying dams will not solve the problem -- other beavers will sense a vacancy in the area and start building a new dam as soon as the very same day. Instead, certain measures such as wrapping hardware cloth around tree bases, or installing PVD pipes through beaver dams to control water levels (with mesh around the openings so beavers don't clog them with mud and sticks), are very effective ways to resolve beaver problems. Any state wildlife agency can get free "beaver baffler" materials for landowners through the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service's "Partners for Wildlife" program (call the Branch of Habitat Restoration at 703-358-2201 to locate your state coordinator and get advice). Our 12-page brochure, Living With Beavers, describes these techniques in further detail.
Q: A baby bird fell from the nest and I touched him. Will the parents reject their chick now?
A: It's a myth that birds abandon their chicks if a person touches them. Unlike other animals, birds have a poor sense of smell. They won't even know that their babies were handled! Just put the baby birds back in their nest. If the original nest was destroyed, hang a wicker or woven stick basket close to where the original nest was. (These are the kind of baskets that flower arrangements come in. They can be purchased inexpensively at supermarket florist departments or garden stores. Most people have them around the house.) Woven stick baskets make perfect substitute nests, and they allow rain to pass through so the birds don't drown. You should watch for an hour to make sure the parents return to the new nests to feed their chicks. If they don't return, call your wildlife agency to locate the nearest wildlife rehabilitator.
Q: A bird keeps attacking my window! What's going on?
A: Male birds commonly attack windows during mating season. The bird wrongly assumes that his own reflection is a rival in his territory! You can prevent this by hanging an old shirt, cloth, or squares of aluminum foil outside the window to break up the reflection.
Q: Pigeons, starlings, or sparrows are roosting on my building. How do I get them to leave?
A: Roosting birds rarely cause damage, but their droppings can be annoying to people. Poisoning is extremely cruel (the intent of some common poisons is to cause extended seizures in birds and supposedly frighten other birds away) and does not address the problem that other birds will soon move in to fill that vacancy. By modifying the habitat you can encourage them to go elsewhere. While a flat ledge is attractive to pigeons, a false ledge can be made by placing a board at an angle of at least 60 degrees so that birds will slide off when they land. You can also use bird netting, a series of nails hammered into the ledge, or a stretched out "Slinky" from a toy store, to make sure birds will not land on your ledges, rafters, or other horizontal surfaces. If you put up nesting boxes in your yard, choose ones with small openings that are designed for birds such as chickadees, nuthatches, and wrens -- boxes with holes larger than one inch in diameter accommodate starlings and sparrows and should be avoided if you do not want to attract these species.
Q: There are coyotes in my neighborhood and I'm afraid they'll attack my children or pets. What should I do?
A: Coyotes are generally afraid of people, and almost never attack humans. The best thing you can do for cats and small dogs is to keep them indoors -- both for their own safety and for the safety of neighboring wildlife. Coyotes are opportunistic eaters, and are attracted to places where they can find "easy pickings" of fruit, trash, or small animals. You can make sure you don't attract coyotes to your house by taking several additional precautions: (1) don't keep pet food outdoors, (2) pick the fruit from your trees as soon as it ripens and keep rotten fruit off the ground, and (3) keep trash can lids securely fastened and keep trash cans in your garage until trash day.
Q: If I find a fawn alone does that mean the fawn is orphaned?
A: People mistakenly assume that a fawn is orphaned if found alone. Rest assured that the mother is nearby. The doe will only visit and nurse her fawn a few times a day to avoid attracting predators. At 4 weeks old, the fawn will begin to travel with the mother. Just leave the fawn alone unless you know the mother is dead. Mother deer are wary of human smells. If you have handled the fawn, rub an old towel in the grass and wipe the fawn to remove human scent. Using gloves, return the fawn to where he or she was found.
Q: How can I stop deer from eating shrubs and flowers in my garden?
A: There are several good deer repellents, such as "Hinder" and "Big Game Repellent Deer Away" which are available at garden stores, or "Deer Off" (available by calling 1-800-333-7633). An 8-foot woven wire fence or high-tensile electric wire fence kit (available at many garden stores) will keep deer away from small gardens if installed properly. Benner's Gardens (1-800-753-4660) sells a virtually invisible mesh barrier that easily attaches to trees or posts. Be sure to hang long, light-colored cloth strips every 8 feet so the deer don't become entangled in the camouflaged mesh. Our 12-page brochure, Living With Deer, describes in detail many of these fencing techniques, and lists more than 100 types of plants -- including marigolds, daffodils, and hydrangeas -- that deer generally find unpalatable and will stay away from.
Q: What can I do to prevent gophers and woodchucks from eating the tender roots of plants I've just planted?
A: Before planting, make a fine-meshed chicken wire basket around the root ball of your plant. Or line your garden with a 3-foot high floppy chicken wire fence which will bend backwards if the woodchuck tries to climb it. Be sure to sink the fence 12 inches underground to prevent tunneling underneath.
Q: How do I rid my house or apartment of mice or rats?
A: You can prevent mice and rats from coming into your home by sealing all holes and small openings (rodents can enter buildings through holes no bigger than a 1/2 inch in diameter) with caulking or cement. Use hardware cloth to patch larger holes and to screen all vent openings. Also, it is crucial to store food in secure containers and to make sure lids fit tightly so that you don't attract rodents. If you have mice or rats in your home, you can order humane catch-and-release traps from the Tomahawk Live Trap Company (1-800-272-8727) and then release the rodents far away from your home. You must then follow-up by rodent-proofing your home!
Q: How can I stop moles from tunneling in my yard?
A: The best solution is a new, environmentally friendly repellent called "Mole-Med," which is available at hardware and garden supply stores or by calling the company directly (1-800-255-2527). Mole-Med is made of emulsified castor oil and will last one to two months per application, but you should reapply it after heavy rains. Pesticides are never recommended for mole control as they are toxic to humans and domestic animals as well as wildlife.
Q: What should I do if I find a dead opossum on the road?
A: Move the dead animal off the road. If it's spring or summer, check to see if the opossum is a female and if there are live babies still in her pouch or in the immediate area. Baby opossums more than 7 inches long (excluding the tail) are mature enough to be on their own. If the opossums are smaller, call your state wildlife agency to locate a wildlife rehabilitator immediately.
Q: What should I do if I find (or my lawnmower hits) a nest of baby rabbits?
A: If the nest is intact, leave it alone! Mother rabbits only visit their young 2 or 3 times a day to avoid attracting predators. If the nest has been disturbed, or if you have reason to believe that the babies are orphaned, you can put an "X" of yarn or sticks over the nest to assess if the mother returns to nurse her young. If the "X" is moved by the next day, the mother has returned to nurse them. If the "X" remains undisturbed for 24 hours, call your wildlife agency to locate a rehabilitator. Keep all cats out of the area because they will surely find and kill the helpless young rabbits. Don't touch the babies (unless orphaned) because mother rabbits are very sensitive to foreign smells and may abandon their young.
Q: What should I do if my cat caught a baby rabbit (or bird)?
A: Unfortunately, scientific studies show that one of the biggest killers of baby rabbits and birds is free-roaming cats. If the rabbit or bird appears unharmed, put the animal back where he or she was found and keep your cats indoors. Luckily, rabbits are fully weaned by the time they're only 3 weeks old and the size of a chipmunk! If you must relocate the rabbit, use a lawn or field that has brush or other cover nearby.
Look very carefully for puncture wounds, which can be almost imperceptible. If the rabbit or bird has any puncture wounds, bring the animal to a veterinarian or rehabilitator quickly. Cats have toxic bacteria in their mouths which become lethal unless the victim is put on antibiotics immediately. Make a commitment to help wildlife by keeping your cats indoors, especially in the spring and summer when wild animals have helpless babies. If you can't keep your cats indoors, you can use multiple-bell collars which will alert some wild animals to your cats' presence. Pet supply stores sell a variety of breakaway collars -- purchase 2 additional large bells (sold separately with S-hooks) and attach them to the cat's collar. The bell on most collars is too quiet to do much good, and stealthy cats learn how to keep it still. Therefore, you need 2 large bells per collar.
Q: What should I do if raccoons nest in my chimney or attic?
A: In spring and summer, mother raccoons may use chimneys and attics as nesting sites for raising their cubs. The best and kindest solution is to wait a few weeks for the raccoons to move out on their own. Don't worry about any smell or mess -- mother raccoons clean their babies meticulously to avoid attracting predators. Once the raccoons are gone, promptly call a chimney sweep to install a mesh chimney cap (or seal any holes leading to the attic) and this situation will never occur again.
If you must evict a raccoon family, remember that raccoons look for a quiet, dark and non-noxious smelling place to raise their young. By creating the opposite conditions, you can encourage them to leave sooner if absolutely necessary. For chimney raccoons, place a blaring radio (loud talk shows or music) in the fireplace. Then put a bowl of ammonia on a footstool (just under the damper). Or sprinkle 2 tablespoons of ammonia on a rag and wedge it in the damper an inch (too much ammonia will asphyxiate the babies). For attic raccoons, leave all the lights on and place a blaring radio and some rags sprinkled with 1/4 cup of ammonia around the attic. Apply these deterrents at dusk ONLY; even harassed mother raccoons won't move their babies in daytime. It may take a few days for the mother to move her young, so be patient. Remember; the only permanent solution is to seal all entry holes once the animals have left.
Q: There's a raccoon in my yard during the daytime. Is the raccoon rabid?
A: Even though raccoons are nocturnal, mother raccoons sometimes forage during the day when they have nursing cubs depleting their energy! Only if an adult raccoon seen in the daytime is showing abnormal behaviors such as paralysis, unprovoked aggression, moving in circles, self-mutilation, making screeching sounds, or showing supreme tameness should you call your local animal control officer or police department.
Q: What can I do to stop raccoons from continuously knocking over my garbage cans?
A: Overflowing or uncovered garbage cans provide an open invitation for hungry raccoons. The simplest solution is to put out your garbage cans for pick-up in the morning, after the nocturnal raccoons have returned to their dens. If you must put out your garbage cans at night, try building a simple wooden box outside and storing your garbage cans in it. For easy access, the top should be hinged and have a latch in front secured with a snaphook. A third option is to get a good plastic garbage can with a four-inch high, tight fitting, TWIST-ON lid, such as the kind made by Rubbermaid. Keep the can upright by wrapping bungee cords around the middle and securing it to an upright object.
Q: How do I get a skunk out of my garage?
A: Skunks commonly wander into open garages when the door is left open. Just make a path of smelly cheese leading out the open garage door. Skunks have terrible eyesight so as long as you move slowly and quietly, the skunk will hardly notice you. You can leave a 2-foot band of flour across the outside of the garage and watch for footprints to confirm that the skunk has left.
Q: There's a skunk in my window well. Why doesn't he jump out?
A: Skunks are not good climbers. They often fall into window wells and can't get out. If the window well is shallow, put a piece of wood in the window well (at a less than 45 degree angle) to serve as a plank so the skunk can walk out. If the window well is deep, put on gloves and place smelly cat food or cheese in the far corner of a pet carrier or cardboard box (tipped on its side) and slowly lower it into the window well. The skunk will be attracted to the food and will walk into it. Then slowly raise the carrier or box to ground level, elevator style, and let the skunk stroll out. Skunks have terrible eyesight and will not spray you if you move slowly and don't corner them. Remember, skunks also give a warning by stamping their front feet, which gives you a chance to back off! Most importantly, purchase or make a window well cover so this situation doesn't recur.
Q: What should I do if a squirrel has fallen down my chimney or is nesting in my attic?
A: Squirrels commonly fall down chimneys and can't get out. Hang a 3/4 inch thick rope or long branch down the chimney (securely fastened at the top) so the squirrel can climb out. Then be sure to put a chimney cap on the flue to prevent reoccurrence. Chimney caps will also prevent squirrels from building shallow nests at the top of the flue which may make it dysfunctional in winter.
If the squirrels are in your attic and it's baby season (spring, late summer, or early fall), chances are good that you have a mother with young. Try to find the nest so you can monitor it. Wait a few weeks until the squirrels leave on their own, or wait until they're fully furred and mobile and then apply a one-way door over the entry hole. You can make a one-way door or purchase one from Tomahawk (1-800-272-8727). Once the squirrels have left, seal the entry hole permanently with hardware cloth. To prevent access to your roof, trim any over hanging tree branches. You can also put a 3-foot band of sheet metal around the base of any access tree 6 feet above ground to prevent squirrels from climbing up -- but first make sure there are no active nests in the tree!
Q: How do I stop squirrels from eating all my birdseed?
A: You may have a difficult time keeping the nimble squirrel away from a free buffet. You can contact your local nature center or Audubon Society for a good baffler design for a free-standing feeder, or purchase the "Absolute" bird feeder which has a lever that closes off the bird seed when a heavy animal like a squirrel lands on it. We strongly discourage the use of any capsaicin-based "hot pepper" powder mix such as "Squirrel Away" which, although advertised as a "humane" repellent when mixed with birdseed, reportedly makes squirrels quite sick and can be highly irritating to birds' eyes as well as the humans that handle it.
Q: Should I call a wildlife nuisance control agent to trap animals who are bothering me?
A: Many trappers are now in the business of nuisance wildlife removal and charge hundreds of dollars for their services. We've received numerous complaints about nuisance control operators unnecessarily killing animals by cruel means such as drowning them, separating mothers from their young, and skinning them for additional profit. We advise against trapping unless there's an immediate threat to you, your family, or your companion animals. When animals nest in your attic, chimney, or basement, the best strategy is to give the animals a grace period (especially a mother with young) or, if absolutely necessary, place deterrents such as ammonia-sprinkled rags, blaring radio, mothballs, or bright lights around the nesting area to encourage their departure. Then find all entry holes and seal them with hardware cloth. Live trapping is very traumatic for wildlife. If you must hire a nuisance wildlife control trapper, be sure to find one of the few who gives you a written guarantee that he will (1) use non-lethal methods only, (2) release the animals together (so juveniles aren't separated from their mothers) and release them on-site (relocated animals have low survival rates when released in unfamiliar areas), and (3) do the necessary exclusion and repair work to prevent wild animals from entering your home. Ask the right questions so you don't pay hundreds of dollars for a cruel "solution."